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Monday – Friday: 7 a.m. – 5 p.m. · Saturday: 8 a.m. – 12 p.m. · Sunday: ClosedMonday – Friday: 7 a.m. – 5 p.m.

What we do

Every water heater job, in plain terms

Six kinds of work. Each one starts with a look at your heater and your house.

  • Tank replacement

    We match the new tank to your household and the space the old one left, then swap it.

    • Gas or electric

    • Sizes from 40 to 75 gallons

    About tank heaters
  • Tankless installs

    A wall unit that heats as you use it, sized for the coldest water of the year.

    • Gas line, vent and drain checked first

    About tankless
  • Heat-pump heaters

    A heater that moves heat out of the room's air. It suits a basement with space.

    • Room, drain and noise checked first

    About heat pumps
  • Repair

    A leaking fitting, a failed element, a pilot that won't stay lit.

    • Repair first when the tank is sound

    • Replace when the tank itself is leaking

  • Flushing and anode service

    Draining scale out of the tank and checking the rod that protects it from rust.

    • A flush early is cheaper than a tank late

  • Descaling

    Clearing scale from a tankless heat exchanger with a pump and a descaling solution.

    • Fargo-area water runs hard

Water on the floor?

Do this first, then call

Four steps, in this order. The first one matters most.

  1. Before anything else

    Step 1: Smell gas? Leave the house.

    Walk out, leave the door open behind you, and call your gas utility from outside. Don't flip a switch or light anything. Call us after.

  2. Step 2: Shut the cold water.

    The valve on the pipe above the heater, on the cold side. Turn it clockwise until it stops.

  3. Step 3: Cut the power or the gas control.

    Electric: the breaker for the heater. Gas: the control knob on the heater to its off or pilot setting.

  4. Step 4: Take a photo, then call.

    Photograph the heater's label and the wet spot. Send both to (701) 555-0100 by text.

Leaks, rust and rumbles

Is a puddle always a dead tank?

No. A leak from a fitting, a valve or the relief pipe can be fixed. A leak from the bottom of the tank or its seams means the tank has failed.

No hot water at all. What can I check?

Electric: the breaker, and the reset button on the heater. Gas: whether the pilot or igniter is lit. If those look fine, or you smell gas, stop and call.

The hot water is rust-colored or smells. Why?

Rust can mean the tank is corroding. A sulfur smell often points to the anode rod and bacteria in the tank. Both are worth a look.

Rumbling or popping from the tank?

That is usually scale on the bottom of the tank, heated until it pops. A flush can help early. A tank full of scale may be at the end of its life.

Not sure which one you need?

Describe what the heater is doing. We tell you what we think it is and what the visit will look at.